China Wrap-up, #1
Now that I’ve been comfortably back for a few days and have been able to get some business taken care of, a wrap-up of the trip is in order. There is a lot of stuff that I couldn’t or didn’t include in blog entries before–too much for just one entry now, so I’ll do it in bunches over the next week or two.
Taxis. I mentioned them before, being cheap and all. They have an initial charge of between one and one and a half dollars, which covers a certain distance, and then the fare increases bit by bit–but they’re really cheap in the long run. I took them quite a lot. Note in the photo below that the drive is shielded in a one-seat plexiglas semi-bubble; one can only presume robberies or something similar prompted that. A lot of the official taxis were VW vehicles, for some reason.

There were also “black taxis,” possibly so named because their backseat windows and rear windshield have black tinting on them, save for an untinted strip across the back windshield. They are smaller vehicles, unmarked, and you may wonder why they have stopped near you, waiting. The fare is negotiated, but don’t be surprised if they renegotiate later, or jack up their prices if you want them to take you to a second location from a place other taxis cannot easily be found.
Ostentatious Signs. I wish I had more photos of these; I mostly spied them when out on the “chicken bus” in the more rural areas, and it was hard to take photos–also because they so often took me by surprise. Sometimes even the most innocuous or humble businesses would have incredibly ornate and imposing signs. You would see a sign twenty feet high, on giant concrete pillars, with gaudy and oversized lettering; reading the English version below, you would see that this magnificent entry sign belonged to something like the “Control Valve Release Mechanism Factory” or some such. It was not just limited to signs, but also the buildings themselves. I even saw one factor whose facade was a full-sized replica of the White House (as in Washington, D.C.). I noticed a building near Ken’s apartment that was giant and ornate, like a mausoleum; it turned out to be a bath house (see photo below).

Knock-offs. Pirated and copied stuff is abundant. Of course, you have your $1-pirated-DVD salesmen everywhere, but more substantial stuff is copied as well. Below is a restaurant chain’s logo, one I saw several times; note how it is a rather obvious copy of the KFC logo. One time, Ken bought what he thought were Oreo cookies (common in China, with many flavors–I liked mint), but they turned out to be bad-tasting knock-offs. Pringles chips, Starburst candies, etc. I’m sure the copying applied to lots of other kinds of products, but I didn’t get the chance to get it all down in the time I was there.

Traffic. I may have mentioned that once or twice. Hectic, not too organized. I saw taxis run red lights not infrequently. They blanch at doing so where cops are stationed, but elsewhere are rather fearless. Pedestrians, bicyclists, moped riders and others mix and mingle in intersections. Drivers manage to squeeze through, missing people by inches. Vehicles ram through intersections, and if you don’t watch out, they’ll come straight at you as if they’re going to run you over.
Honking horns is considered a form of communication. Cars honk at people and at other cars more than bicyclists ring their bells in warning. There is constant honking going on. Taxis are common culprits of this, and perhaps that’s the reason why they have to have their horns muffled. Many streets have a no-honking sign (pictured above right).
It all seems a dangerous setup, but somehow they manage.

I did enjoy a common form of traffic, though–the three-wheeled cart-bike. They are used by individual businesspeople, like those who set up portable selling stalls for food or pirated goods, or for people moving things from place to place. I saw (but was unable to photograph) a rig I called the “Alhambra Truck,” a three-wheeled bike laden with water cooler jugs. (By the way, don’t let the blue spigot fool you, the water is never cooled.)
I often saw these bikes laden with overwhelming cargo, like the mattress pictured below, or on my trip back to the airport, a pile of blankets about 20 feet high. You see these things everywhere.


More later.
